Gen Z is the most environmentally and sustainability-conscious group in history, but their frenetic consumption habits speak louder than their words, data reveals.
According to research by consultancy EY, 58 percent of Gen Z – born between 1997 and 2013 – say they want to buy products that are sustainable and ethically sourced.
More than 60 percent of young Austrian consumers say they are willing to pay more to buy from brands that have a positive impact on society, including when it comes to the environment, Statistica Research found.
And yet, Gen Z shoppers are flocking to Chinese fast fashion platforms like Temu and Shein Wholesale to buy cheap and on-trend clothes in bulk.
Assembling a large wardrobe of the latest looks that costs tens of dollars rather than hundreds seems at odds with their self-reported concern for climate change and sustainability.
What reaches their homes may not cost them much, but experts say the environment, human rights and efforts to reduce waste all pay a high price.
The high cost of fast fashion
The environmental impact of the fast fashion boom is huge, with the average Australian buying 27kg of textiles every year, only to throw 23kg of it into landfill.
Research by RMIT University also shows that Australians import a staggering amount of clothing – 1.4 billion items a year.
It is estimated that around 200,000 tons of clothing end up in landfills across the country each year.
“But it’s not just landfill,” said UniSA PhD candidate Erin Skinner.
“Globally, the fashion industry produces about 20 percent of the world’s wastewater. This translates to 2,700 liters of water to make one cotton T-shirt – enough water for one person to drink for nearly two and a half years.
“And when it comes to CO2 emissions, the fashion industry produces more emissions than the transport and aviation industries combined.”
In 2022, Ms Skinner conducted research into the level of awareness Austrians have of the environmental impacts of fashion consumption.
Many were unaware, which may be part of the reason the country is overrepresented as one of the world’s largest consumers of textiles.
“Fast fashion is all about demand-driven clothing, where shoppers pick up the latest fashion styles at the height of their popularity, only to discard them after a few wears,” Ms Skinner said.
“Such phenomenal waste is clearly unsustainable, so it is vital that the sector educates consumers about alternative options.
“This could mean highlighting the value for money that comes with buying less durable clothing, growing the rental clothing sector, using online influencers to educate, or seeking out more accessible and used items in internet.”
Gen Z’s Controversial Leaders
In an analysis for The Conversation, RMIT University marketing lecturers Marian Makkar and Amanda Spry said digital content trends are helping to fuel Gen Z’s love affair with fast fashion.
“Social media tactics such as ‘deals’ and prepare-with-me videos lure Gen Zs into a rut of overconsumption,” write Makkar and Spry.
“The idea is for content creators to showcase massive amounts of new, trendy clothing. This in turn drives the desire for consumers to consistently buy what they are seeing online – in bulk.”
Over the past two decades, the world’s biggest fast-fashion giants, from Zara to H&M, have designed profitable business models to take the latest and hottest looks on the catwalk and produce inexpensive products inspired by their mass.
But recently, new trading platforms like Shein and Temu have drastically accelerated the process, producing large quantities of clothing at even lower prices and at a faster pace.
For young shoppers, owning “seven on-trend items over two high-quality garments” is much more appealing, Makkar and Spry said.
And popular online trends and buzzwords pushed by influencers, from “fakes” or duplicates to “repeats” or copycats, make buying fast fashion too much of a temptation to resist, they added.
The cost of living crisis doesn’t help.
Research earlier this year by financial comparison website finder.com.au found 77 per cent of Gen Z are struggling with money.
“Being bombarded with persuasive tactics from brands and influencers, the ease of access to new items at the click of a button, and the lure of affordable prices amid a cost-of-living crisis make it very difficult for even the most dedicated Gen Z. the consumer to buy ethically.
“The biggest demographic to pull back on spending due to economic stress is 18 to 26 year olds.
“Young people typically earn the lowest wages and enjoy less job security. These financial constraints are challenging for Gen Z looking to consume more sustainably. Fast fashion becomes an inexpensive option for them to stay fashionable without breaking the bank.”
Are they hypocrites? It’s complicated
At first glance, the contradiction of “sustainability generation” contributing to a major environmental issue in a major way seems very hypocritical.
“Gen Z are Shein shoppers, haulers, micro-trend followers and repeat clothing shamers,” said Makkar and Spry.
“It goes against their environmentally conscious values.
“While this seems hypocritical, it’s what’s called the attitude-behavior gap — the discrepancy between what people say and what they actually do. This is a phenomenon observed across multiple generations.”
Research suggests that they may just be a little clueless about the real cost of their cheap clothing.
Ipsos’ annual report on Climate Change 2023 found that Austrians see industries such as fashion as least likely to have an impact on climate change.
And it’s not as if respondents are apathetic about environmental issues.
Last year, 67 per cent of Australians said climate change posed a serious threat to our way of life over the next 25 years.
In 2010, only 10 percent of respondents thought so.
Makkar and Spry said the very drivers of interest in fast fashion may evolve to help raise awareness of its impact.
“It’s time to re-engage with social media content creators in a variety of ways that educate consumers, promote responsible behavior and advocate for changed regulations and business practices.
“This can include tried-and-true tactics such as influencer endorsements and curated videos that are refocused on more sustainable options — like second-hand online retailers.”
In recent months, some counter-trends have emerged that the pair describe as “promising.”
One is ‘under-consumption core’, a TikTok trend that promotes minimalism and being thrifty and ‘low-impact’, pushing back popular content creators that brands want.
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